NOTE: The LM317T regulator really needs its own heat sink.
A functional Anet A8 (or other 3D printer) – because you have to print two parts (enclosure and mount). You can use the wire from a spare endstop switch if you have some – this way you can use even it’s connector. Some wire to connect the laser to the printer’s mainboard. A small piece of universal PCB to mount the components on it –. I used a different one that I already had, but this one should do it: That said, you can still do pretty cool stuff with it. This, above everything, is a toy you can play with 🙂 If you use thin paper and slow speed, it can even cut it. The hardest are white and red, because they reflect the red color the most, and as a result it’s harder for the red laser to burn them. Generally, darker colors are engraved better. When you print the file, the gcode moves the printer’s head to a predefined Z axis height at which the laser is focused with G1 command, and then uses G1 X… Y… command to move the head, and M106/M107 to turn the laser on/off.īecause of the low power (and relatively safer) laser, the burning strength is not very high, and is very dependent on what color is the material you want to engrave. The principle is very simple – you design your file using the vector graphics editor Inkscape, and then generate the output gcode file by using a simple Inkscape extension. The laser diode from the link below is not very powerful anyway, so you will most likely use it at 100% all the time. The laser is controlled and powered via the FAN1 output on the PCB using M106 and M107 gcode commands, so you will even be able to use PWM to control the “burning power” of the laser. #Inkscape gcode grayscale how to#
This guide will show you how to turn your Anet A8 3D printer into cheap low-power DIY laser engraver – without any permanent or difficult hardware modifications (except a small mounting bracket that you mount on FAN2!
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